As I had the pleasure of having guests several guests during my stay in Berlin this summer, I got the chance to play city guide a couple of times. My most succesful tour, in my humble opinion, was the fairly long walk down Berlin’s 4 major boulevards with my friend Marie, which took pretty much a whole day (with a very late start). I will try to supplement this with some of my personal photos later, and hopefully figure out a way to add an interactive map. I wish I had played around with Google maps more. So this is it, in 4 parts.
1. Karl-Marx-Allee: The socialist boulevard. Technically the Allee starts at Frankfurter Tor (you can get there on the U5), but if you want the full decadent experience we had, you should start at Samariter Strasse: If you walk south down Simon-Dach-Strasse you can have an indulgent breakfast in one of the many sidewalk cafes, as we did. It will also give you a great perspective on Karl-Marx-Alee and the two towers which frame it at Frankfurter Tor. From there you can walk West toward the Alexanderplatz TV tower (the one with the ball). This was the showcase boulevard of the German Democratic Republic, AKA East Germany. The houses are indeed fairly impressive, decorated with tilework, and they are still highly desirable. The boulevard is very broad, with wide sidewalks lined with trees and with grass. Now it’s also busy with bars, expensive shops, and ethnic restaurants, as most of former East Berlin is. (Well, the central parts anyway). The view of the TV tower at the end of the boulevard is pretty impressive. If the sun is behind you, you will also be able to see the cross that the light forms on the ball. Of course I am assuming it will be a sunny day in Berlin… Once you get to Alexanderplatz, you might want to veer off the track of this tour, to see the Nikolaiviertel, the “birthplace” of medieval Berlin. If you are doing this tour in the next few months you might also be able to see the remains of the Palast der Republic – the socialist parliament building which has now been demolished in order to rebuild the Prussian Palace which was at that site. (See a previous blog on the subject). The Marx and Engels monument is also worth visiting if you are into East German History: the two philosophers are side by side, with their backs turned toward the West.
2. Unter Den Linden: The Prussian Boulevard. Once you cross the bridge you’re on the Museum Island, and about to be submerged in Prussian classicism. First on your right will be the Berliner Dom, Berlin’s ostentatious Lutheran “Cathedral”, a building of debatable merits. The view from the gallery around the dome is well worth the climb: about 300 steps, I believe. Next you will pass by the Lustgarten, the grassed area in front of the Old Museum, with its fountain. The Lustgarten was actually created by the Prussian king as a “gift” to the people (he kept the Tiergarten for his personal amusement), but it was later paved by the Nazis for military demonstrations. Nowadays it’s pretty busy with tourists. On the other side off the island you find yourself in Prussia-central: The armshouse on your right is now the German Historical Museum (well worth a visit on its own), the Neue Wache monument (formerly the house of the city guard and now an anti-war monument with a statue by Berlin sculptor Kathe Kollwitz), the Staatsoper, the main buildings of Humboldt University, which actually served as the royal palace before the Potsdam palaces were built, and the Staatsbibliothek. A mounted statue of Friedrich II (aka the Great) stands in the middle of the boulevard. Further along, past Friedrichstrasse, are many of the major Embassies, including French one which gives Pariser Platz its name. Pariser Platz is the end of Unter den Linden infront of the Brandenburg gate.
A worthwhile diversion would be turning left town Wilhelmstrasse. There aren’t many signs of the past here, but this was were most of the Nazi headquarters, including the Chancellor’s offices, were housed. Most of the buildings were destroyed, but the formers headquarters of Commercial Aviation still stand, one of the few remaining examples of Nazi architecture. They are now Finance ministry, I believe. The relief of Nazi soldiers was replaced by an equally ideologic Socialist mural. If you do choose to come down here, you can continue on to Potsdamer Platz through Leipziger Strasse, and then return to the Brandenburg Gate to continue. An icecream break at Potsdamer Platz is highly reccomended…
3. 17. Juni: The Nazi boulevard. There are not many signs of the boulevard’s Nazi past, but it’s still an interesting walk. Before you begin heading west, you might also want to take a look at the Reichstag, which is north of Brandbenburg Gate toward the river. The highlights of the 17. Juni are the Soviet monument, which ironically stood in West Berlin, and the Victory column at the center of the Tiergarten (from which Obama delivered his sensational speech…). The Tiergarten itself is worth visiting, however. This was the Prussian King’s hunting grounds, as the name suggests (“animal garden”), and it still looks fairly wild compared to most city parks. For West Berliners it was particularly important, since it was one of the few green spaces they had access to without driving for hours through East Germany. From the Victory Column take Bremer Weg toward the South, and then cross the river. The best way not to get lost is to followe the elevated S-Bahn. You might also try smelling your way there, since you’re heading toward the Zoologischer Garten… On the other side of the “Zoo” train station, you will see the bombed Memorial church, with its broken spire, a reminder of the sufferings of war.
4. Kurfustendamm: The Capitalist Boulevard. On the other side of the Memorial church, the Kurfustendamm is the Fifth Avenue of West Berlin. It probably has the highest density of Starbucks cafes, too. For many East Berliners I’ve met, the Kurfustendamm symbolized the “freedoms” of the West, the freedom to shop, that is. Of course nobody can actually afford to shop there, but they are free to look! The Kurfustendamm, however, had always been the commercial center of Berlin, and West Berlin had always been an “exclusive” shopping district, even before the division. The “boulevard” theatres were also located here, while the serious, state-supported theatres, were in Mitte around Unter den Linden and Friedrichstrasse.
It took us about 5 hours to walk the whole way, including all of the diversions from the main route, and a couple of breaks, first at Potsdamer Platz and the at the Reichstag. This might be a tour that’s more suited for people with an interest and at least some knowledge of German history, than for the average traveler, but I hope some people will find it helpful.